Unlike the deep historical contexts of Chinatowns in New York, San Francisco and L.A.’s rebuilt New Chinatown, Vegas’ counterpart was founded with intention as a pluralistic business community in a real sense it’s designed to be surveyed by cuisine. It blasts more fermented pungency than plenty of versions I’ve tried in the SGV. “You should get the stinky tofu too.” I take her playful dare, and I eat it with pickled vegetables between bites of beef roll and soy milk. “Oh, so you like Taiwanese food!” she says. When I order o ah jian - layered with textures in a swirl of omelet, oysters and sweet potato starch that firms into a gel when it cooks - it amuses our server. The long menu channels many of the most popular sunrise street foods in Taiwan: oblong baked savory pastries filled with ropy threads of pork or egg or braised beef and mustard greens turnip cakes, steamed dumplings and jiu cai he zi (pan-fried hand pies plump with sliced leeks, scrambled egg and vermicelli noodles) variations of fan tuan, its tubes of sticky rice filled with greens or meats and, on almost every table, bowls of hot soy milk with long, crackling youtiao for dipping. (Maria Alejandra Cardona / Los Angeles Times)Īt breakfast, with the temperatures outside already rising, the destination one morning is a booth in the back of Taiwan Deli’s cool, dark room.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |